Big 25, Part B!

I have a feeling that even though the birthday falls on a Saturday this year, nothing too special is going to happen. But my desire to make the big 25 a little extra special remains. So I have conveniently labelled my two August weekend trips as my birthday celebrations in advance. Wayanad was A, and this past weekend’s Orchha trip was B. Two reasons why it works well are:
1. I am at my happiest when I am travelling.
2. There is no guilt in spending so much money because birthday is anyway special!

The Orchha idea was floated by Amiya and her friend Alekhya. I got involved because I had posted on Facebook that I want to travel during the janamashtami weekend. I wanted to see snow, but I didn’t mind palaces and temples at all.

The economics geek club and I were to take the Bhopal Shatabdi till Jhansi, and travel by road from there. I was boarding a train after about 1.5 years and was excited as always. And the window seat made me happier. It was an uneventful journey with courteous interaction with Alekhya and Shantanu whom I had met briefly on one or two occasions earlier.

We took two autos from Jhansi station to Orchha. On the way, Tarun and I discussed how the weather was decent and the air was cool. I had devoted no time to any kind of planning for this trip. While packing a couple of hours before the train I had only managed to check the weather conditions and had noticed the 80% humidity projection. 80% did seem to be on the higher side, but I had no choice at that hour. It would not be an exaggeration even if I say that this humidity felt like it was 150% over the three days. I was not amused. And now that I have cribbed about it, I shall go on talking about the good things.

Amiya had arranged for us to spend a night at a home stay in the interiors of Orchha. We were all worried that we may have to use community toilets but nobody was to mess with Amiya after she had given her word to someone. To my pleasant surprise, the toilet there was nice and clean. Especially given what I had to experience in my last trip. Half-squats are not easy if you have not seen the face of your gym in 20 days. But Alekhya really wanted a far more convenient bathroom. One with a tub, I mean. I think that first day I rubbed her the wrong way quite a few times. I was almost sure she would hate me by the end of the trip. Anyway.

Shantanu, with Manish, a kid who amused all but me.

After a nice, homely lunch at our hosts’ place, we decided we would rent cycles and visit the less explored side of the Betwa river. For that we had to bike through Futera, a small village adjacent to our place of stay. Most of us were riding a bike after long but were equally excited about our little venture. A short distance on road was followed by a kaccha road, which was followed by lugging the cycles through a rocky terrain.

Betwa

My claim of being a water person was written off because I do not know how to swim and was not comfortable going into the river. The others enjoyed the water immensely as I had the near-coronary of this trip. My need for a few quiet, alone moments made me walk a little away from where everyone else was. But I had not gone too far when I slipped on a rock and completely lost control. Heard the camera smash on the adjacent rock. In the five seconds that the entire episode took place, I also froze for a moment after hearing that sound. The lens had taken a hit. I was much thankful about the fact that I had not taken the hood off yet. After noticing the scratches on it, I felt the pain that was poking in my back. It was rough, but not too bad. I walked on. A couple of steps ahead I noticed some movement in the water. It got me enthused because I almost believed it to be a crocodile. Right then Tarun called and insisted that I came back. And when I turned around, my croc had turned into a stupid buffalo. Without giving it any further attention, I walked back to where everyone else was, we clicked a few pictures, and started our journey back home.

We spent some time contemplating whether it would make sense to move to Khajuraho the following day or not. I obviously wanted to go. Because of the slow pace of the trip till then, others didn’t. Nobody understood my ‘main to ja rahi hoon’ emotion, and I decided to behave myself because I was travelling with these people for the first time. Actually I behaved extremely well for the bummer that the decision was in my head. Alas, nobody except me could appreciate it then.

Amiya and Alekhya took a little nap. Tarun whiled away time and then went for a bath. Sitting around, doing nothing in that annoying weather was driving me crazy. So, at 6.30 pm, I picked up my camera and stepped out. I didn’t know where I was going. I knew that the light was receding too quickly, but I just had to step out! I think Shantanu couldn’t figure why I suddenly decided to go out alone and offered to come along. I didn’t mind his company, and the two of us started walking. I saw the chhatris in the distance and felt like going there. But the light was really too low for it to be of any use. Then we saw that big tree that we had noticed in the morning. It was bloody huge. Shantanu was excited about it, wanted to have a closer view of it, and I also thought it made sense to go there rather than figure the way to the chhatris. We asked for directions to the tree and rushed towards it. I clicked a few pictures and again felt that sense of incompetence at capturing the grandeur of nature through my camera. In any case, there’s no reason to complain as it was a nice, little outing that improved my mood.

We had been suggested to try out Milan restaurant for good pizzas. The sceptic in me had a feeling that it would turn out to be one of those not-so-nice overrated popular places. But it was surprisingly good. Wood fired pizzas, pastas, cheesy mashed potatoes, good juices and laughter made for a perfectly indulgent and satiating dinner.

Alekhya!

Like all fun trips with friends, this too had a ‘highlight of the trip’. During our auto ride back Tarun snapped at innocent Alekhya with a, “clearly you don’t know anything about the Mesopotamian civilization”. (Geek club, told ya!) It was all in good humour and the ‘clearly’ tone is going to stay with us till the time we remember this trip. 

I had planned to wake up early so that I could check out all the pretty places at leisure (in decent weather). But when my alarm rang I realised that we were going to be in that place for two more days and we could all just go do the sight-seeing together. So I went back to sleep for a few more hours.

While the home stay was nice, the humidity was getting to all of us and we really wanted to get out of there to a more comfortable place. Tarun worked hard to find a decent hotel for the following night and we finally narrowed in on the available Betwa Retreat. Heritage suite at Betwa Retreat to be precise. The idea was that all of us could stay together in one big room. So we settled our accounts with Friends of Orchha and took an auto to our hotel. We couldn’t help but laugh at the stark contrast that the hotel’s luxury was to our little, rural experience of the previous 24 hours. But we are all admittedly spoilt, big city kids. Nothing makes us happier than an air conditioner. Hey, the place had a bath tub too! 😀 One of them looked towards me and even commented that s/he knows that now I would just stay parked in the room. But I had to not give in to that temptation! I didn’t know when, or if at all, these guys would go out to see what Orchha is known for. So I was the first one in for a shower and out I went to the Raja’s Mahal to get my sole ticket which allowed entry to all tourist places there. On the way I also bought a much-needed stole lest my skin would have burned down to ashes ‘coz it wasn’t just humid then, the sun was harsh too.

Night at the home stay!

The Betwa Retreat Hotel

Our Heritage Suite

On entering, my first thought was, “wow, they’re not making any effort to maintain this place”. But the structure’s beauty and expanse took over that feeling instantly. I took a long walk all around the complex, met more cows and goats (Orchha’s definitely cattle-extensive!) and clicked a lot of pictures. What I also observed during those two hours was some constant religious singing in the background. Someone had mentioned a temple where people have been singing for eight years, but this sound could not have been from the temple because it was in the other direction. I don’t remember when I started following that voice, but I do remember that it was one of the most soulful, most touching voices ever. The man wasn’t entirely in tune, but his voice was real.

Some good conversations and okay-ish food later, the four of them went to the Mahals and I went to the room for a cool-down. The set-up somehow worked well for me. I relaxed for some time and then joined them again at Milan restaurant. We had clearly developed a liking for the place!

From Milan we walked to the cenotaphs closer to our hotel. They looked magnificent in the setting sun’s light.

Alekhya had been wishing for some wine for the past two days, and dinner that night was finally time for some wine. But as it turned out, she didn’t want that wine anymore. So we ordered for white rum, and Amiya & I gave her company. Soon, Alekhya and I were cracking up over some nonsense that at least I don’t remember now. All I know is that we were having a good time.

Soon after we got back to the room, Amiya and Alekhya stepped out with their conversations. Tarun fell asleep. Shantanu and I had a small but interesting discussion, and then he went out and joined the girls too. I wasn’t too sleepy, I didn’t want to disturb them either, so I decided to walk to the other side of the lawn and sit with the moon. The stillness of the night and the striking brightness of the moon somehow made me wish for company for a change. A shoulder to rest my head on. But that didn’t change the fact that I was enormously thankful to my god for giving me that moment. Over the years I have learnt to respect some of the finer opportunities and people that He has sent my way. And this night was one of the many flashes of happiness and freedom that I have got from Him.

Shantanu had promised me that he won’t let me sleep before I drink enough water to compensate for the drinking, and thankfully he kept his word.

The next morning was definitely lazy. Even for me. I lay on the bed and enjoyed the nothingness as Amiya played some sufi music on Tarun’s laptop (which he was carrying for work like a typical consultant). We took our time getting ready and checking out. It was too late by the time we thought of the temples because apparently they’re closed by 12.30 pm. So we just went to another popular restaurant, Cha Cha Moon, played poker there, and sat around till the time we could breathe no more because it was a little stuffy there.

We were again taking the Bhopal Shatabdi from Jhansi, and were scheduled to leave at 1755. Till then we killed time at the hotel reception, took prints of the ticket, shopped a little, lost a borrowed earring, found it, laughed, and perspired too.

I saw the setting sun from the massive window of the train and felt even happier about life.

This trip was quite different from the Wayanad trip the previous weekend. Even from the ones that I used to take from Pune. The strangers were exceedingly sweet and I had a great time with them. Tarun was the comforting factor even though he was highly irritating as usual. And of course, complete credit goes to Amiya for planning, organising, and making this trip happen. We were all busy with our respective lives, but she took the much-needed initiative and made our weekend perfect.